Anchors, camels and kayaks: A less traditional Christmas for Kiwi travellers

Christmas is often defined by the traditions of familiar faces, overflowing tables and the comfort of home. But for some families, choosing a different path has reshaped the festive season into something altogether more adventurous.

For Richard and Carolyn Powles, Christmas now unfolds at anchor. While their voyage from New Zealand to Malaysia began in 2023, the couple has been living aboard their yacht, Moon River, for a decade.

Carolyn’s love of the sailing life began in childhood, fuelled by books about ocean adventures and early voyages around New Zealand's islands. What started as an experiment with her own family soon became a full-time reality. Today, the family of six trades suburbia for saltwater horizons as they sail the world together.

Raising Jackson, Tasman, McKinley and Hawken, aged eight to 14, at sea brings countless rewards, the Powles say, though Christmas brings its own set of challenges. Space is limited, shops are scarce and loved ones are often oceans away. Still, the family has found ways to make the day feel special.

"In this part of the world, it’s difficult to find presents, and living on a yacht means space is extremely limited," Carolyn told RNZ via email. "So instead of wrapped gifts, it’s experience vouchers. Instead of a pine tree, it’s a mini Lego one. And instead of our large families, it's a bunch of like-minded sailors anchored at the same beach, at the same time."

One such Christmas was spent in Raja Ampat, the Indonesian archipelago of more than 1500 small islands, cays, and shoals. The day included diving with manta rays and reef sharks, climbing “mushroom-shaped islands” and returning to shore at sunset near a floating village.

"That Christmas stripped things back to their essentials,” Carolyn recalls. "Warm water, a stunning location and good company.

"Our sailing family of six yachts had spent a few months together on a journey over Papua New Guinea, and Christmas was the culmination of our voyage together, cementing lifelong friendships. It was a day we will never forget."

This year’s celebration will be even larger: around 16 yacht families, including 15 children, all anchored somewhere in Indonesia. Plans include beach games, shared meals on the sand, a sunset bonfire and a starlit night.

The festive feast will look a little different, too. Ham and turkey will be replaced with chicken and fish cooked over the fire, alongside salads and pasta dishes. Carolyn plans to attempt a trifle. For many, it would be hard to tackle a pavlova using a temperamental gas oven.

"Out here, with sand between our toes and SV Moon River swinging gently at anchor, home is wherever the anchor drops."

The McCollams, full-time travellers, will spend Christmas Eve in Oman’s Wahiba Sands with their toddler, followed by camel rides and time exploring the ancient city of Nizwa.

"Being away from home has made us appreciate the meaning of the day even more, especially sharing it as a family while introducing our daughter to different cultures and landscapes," the couple told RNZ via email.

As an Islamic country, Oman doesn't usually offer platters of ham easily, but that hardly matters to them because they say the food has been delicious.

Their only gift this year will be replacing their photography-loving toddler's broken camera. For themselves, shared moments are more than enough.

Fittingly, the McCollams began their journey on Christmas Day last year, leaving New Zealand after deciding they wanted a more meaningful pace of life with their newborn.

"Last Christmas was emotional. We said goodbye to our family on Christmas morning in New Zealand before starting our journey, and while we had a lovely afternoon in Bali, there was a lot of uncertainty about whether we’d made the right decision.

"A year on, we feel completely different. We love this lifestyle, we’re incredibly proud of Ella and how much she's grown through travel, and we’re deeply grateful that we took the leap."

Abigail Hannah has spent the past five years living and travelling full-time in a van. Just before Christmas this year, she and her husband are parked outside a Christchurch laundromat, ticking off errands before holiday closures.

"I thought 'Oh, we're probably the only ones that haven't planned Christmas'. But then we've met other people that also live on the road and we're like, 'what are you guys doing for Christmas?' And they're like, 'oh, we're not sure yet'."

This year, Kaikōura beckoned, chosen for clear skies and the promise of kayaking (potentially alongside wildlife). It's a Christmas experience they haven’t had before. Hannah says she’s rarely repeated the same festive routine, a habit that began long before van life.

"I know a lot of people love their traditions and love returning to the same places and doing the same things over again. But since I've been an adult and even before then as a child, I don't think I've had like the same Christmas twice, which almost has a special element in a different way."

While both of their families are overseas this year, it’s not unfamiliar territory. Some of her most memorable Christmases have unfolded far from home: a shared feast at a DOC campsite in Spirit Bay at the northern tip of the North Island, or a spontaneous Secret Santa organised among travellers and locals who would otherwise have been alone.

A less traditional Christmas may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but Hannah believes it’s worth breaking out of that mould sometimes.

You can follow their journeys on Instagram: @chasingmoonriver, @themccollams and @abigailhannnah.