Tanning and anti-aging procedures: Gen Z loves both

It’s no secret that Gen Z, those currently aged between 14 and 29, spend big on beauty products and cosmetic procedures.

They typically lean towards complicated, multistep beauty routines and get into it early. Cosmetic procedures such as Botox are being used to prevent aging rather than dial back its impact. This younger generation is increasingly likely to forgo spending money on alcohol so they can join a health club or buy wellness supplements. The sauna is the place to socialise rather than the bar. Looking good and feeling good are paramount.

So, it’s somewhat surprising that New Zealand’s young people are still drawn to the gaze of something that can age you quicker and leave you with lifelong health implications, such as skin cancer. Yes, I'm referring to the sun and its glorious ability to give us a tan.

A report released last week found that young people in New Zealand disclosed high rates of sunburn, a misunderstanding of sun safety, and hold a positive attitude towards tanning (tanning is a sign that the skin is in damage control). Their love of tanning is evident in the social media trend to check for a high UV index to determine the best days and times to build a tan.

It’s a contradiction that Katherine Williams, the research and development lead for Caci, a cosmetic treatment provider with locations around New Zealand, sees up close in the faces of some younger clients. Young clients typically come in with a huge amount of knowledge about skin health and the pros and cons of the procedure they are after, says. Williams. Caci offers everything from traditional facials to procedures like Botox and laser treatments, the most advanced one costing $870 per session.

“They know everything there is to know about it, and then we see these customers come in, maybe in their mid-20s, let’s say 25, 26, and we’re seeing pigmentation, hyperpigmentation, irregularities, a bit of redness across those high sun areas - nose, your cheeks, the chest.”

Therapists at Caci are also seeing a breakdown of the skin barrier, which Williams attributes to both sun damage and the early use of strong beauty products like acids.

“When your barrier is compromised, it leaves you more susceptible to UV damage. So it's all like a domino effect.”

This month's study found that young New Zealanders were mostly unaware of the “slip, slop, slap, wrap” sun safety message that was seared into the minds of older generations. (Slip on a shirt, slop on some sunscreen, slap on a hat, and “wrap” on sunglasses).

When RNZ hit an Auckland beach to chat with sunbaking young people, two out of the seven interviewed knew what the message meant. However, at least some of the sun safety measures at the heart of that adage had trickled down through parents to all of them.

“[I] wear lots of sunscreen because we came here a couple of weeks ago and got really burnt, so we learnt our lesson, I think,” says Caitlin, 16.

Tanning and its negative effects have Chris Boer, 34, between a rock and a hard place.

“It's kind of a hard discussion because I really like to get tanned, but I'm also familiar with the consequences since my granddad had skin cancer, but he didn't use any lotion...

“I like to get tanned more than I'm worried about the part about cancer.”

For Lila, 16, there is a balance between enjoying New Zealand’s outdoor lifestyle and maintaining a tan versus aging faster down the line.

“...at least if I wear sunscreen, I feel like that is protecting me and reapplying and having water so you don't have sunstroke.

“This is what summer is all about, I guess. You can't get this in winter so we just try and make the most of it...”

Taking solid sun safety measures is something Dr Phil Frost has noticed in his younger clients. Frost is the founder and medical director at Face Value, a cosmetic clinic in Christchurch. The clinic has a small, but increasing number of young clients, says Frost, noting that Face Value only serves those older than 18.

“Gen Z are a pretty clued-up population. They're very media-focused. They're very well informed. They come in often with a clear understanding of what actually causes skin aging.”

And they are increasingly concerned about aging, he says. Frost often has to temper their expectations from social media with real outcomes while directing them to procedures that are appropriate for their age.

“So yes, we are seeing more people come in, and they're concerned about getting frown lines. Their mum and their dad are getting heavy lines. They know that they frown, and they can start seeing lines forming, and Botulinum Toxin [the active ingredient in Botox] is a wonderful treatment to sort of stop the clock.”

Bronwen McNoe, a senior research fellow at the University of Otago who led this month's study on young people and sun safety, believes messaging focused on anti-aging rather than skin cancer risks is the best way to reach New Zealand’s young generations.

“My comment with respect to spending up large on anti-ageing products is that the very best thing you can do to prevent skin ageing, wrinkles, and sun spots is to stay out of the sun or always use sun protection."