The low-key eateries we'd like to see get a Michelin star in New Zealand

They might be tiny, hole-in-the-wall spots but hungry diners are happy to queue to get a seat.

RNZ Online
10 min read
Plates of delicious food at Eden Noodles in Mt Eden.
Caption:Plates of delicious food at Eden Noodles in Mt Eden.Photo credit:Nicky Park

News that Michelin Food Guide inspectors have started working incognito in New Zealand has the fine dining food scene aflutter.

But the prestigious guide and its star system isn't just limited to pricey, multi-course options.

Street food restaurants already feature in several guides, with two spots in Asia earning stars themselves – Singapore's Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle, and Thai omelette hot spot Jay Fai in Bangkok.

Chef Josh Emett.

Chef Josh Emett.

Supplied

Both are ‘hole in the wall’ eateries, where punters willingly queue for hours to get their fix.

Auckland chef Josh Emett told RNZ's Checkpoint the Michelin Guide had moved on from "white tablecloths and the finest china".

"It's about doing things incredibly well in terms of food and service. It's about experiences and it's about doing that well.

"It's not whether you've got carpet on the floor and whether you've got white tablecloths. I think the fine dining side of things has moved on long ago. There's a chicken shop in Asia that's got a Michelin star and they serve the best chicken in the world and it's got nothing to do with formal dining."

After a quick bit of crowd sourcing in RNZ's newsrooms around the country, we came up with some Kiwi eateries the Michelin judges might want to check out.

Auckland

It's likely you will have to line up on cold, dark Dominion Road for one of about 20 seats inside Eden Noodles Cafe, but it's worth it. This tiny place remains one of the best eats on the strip (spinoffs have opened but the OG is it for me).

I like to dine there with just one other person - so we can order just the right amount of spicy, slurpy dishes to share with only one other. We must snap up a tiny table for two right beside the bustling pass packed with the plates, cutlery and all the carry on happening in the fizzing kitchen.

My order is on repeat - dumplings in sweet spicy sauce (spy the lady perched on a stool at the breezy entry folding trays and trays of them) and handmade dan dan noodles with crispy pork mince. To take the edge off, add a bowl of bright pink Sichuan pickle and of course a cucumber salad (get one to take away for tomorrow too).

The small square grey, often wobbly, plastic tables, are big enough (just) for your flavoursome dishes, a little side bowl each and a box of tissues to wipe your chin when the spicy, sticky, vinegary sauces drip as you chopstick and chomp your way through the feast.

Order at the counter, often using the number on the menu aside the dish you want, get your own bowls and bits, your food will come quick, the faces are smiling but no time is wasted on unnecessary niceties. Once your bellies are full, your bowls empty and your tissues all gone it's time to tidy up your table and get the heck out. The line is still out the door.

- Nicky Park

Hamilton

Hanoi Boy, a Vietnamese restaurant in Cambridge.

Hanoi Boy, a Vietnamese restaurant in Cambridge.

RNZ

Once again people seem to have forgotten that Hamilton is the country’s fastest growing city (and youngest). Why aren’t the anonymous Michelin diners coming to this trending city to find the country's best restaurants?

Well, to be fair, neither is RNZ.

Our pick escapes the city and goes to the want-to-be English town of Cambridge, about 20 minutes down the road, to eat Vietnamese and Vietnamese-French food at Hanoi Boy on Victoria Street.

Parking is easy, the ambiance is cool, almost everything seems gluten free without even trying, and the cocktails are excellent.

Hanoi Boy started life as a food truck which always had a queue, just like the restaurant now does, so make sure you book ahead.

Favourites include the cơm gà nướng, which with its lemongrass chicken and viet-slaw is enjoyed even by picky youngsters, and bò sốt vang which is a Vietnamese take on beef bourguignon.

No matter what you order add a crispy spring roll to the top or you aren’t really living.

- Libby Kirkby-McLeod

Wellington

Viva Mexico Newtown Wellington

Viva Mexico Newtown Wellington.

RNZ / Samuel Rillstone

Viva Mexico in Newtown is fresh, the vibe is fun (they describe it as buzzy, which is true), and the jalapeno poppers really pop - so add that to your list of starters.

The poppers also come with a side of sour cream and pickled onions - you can't go wrong.

The guacamole and salted corn chips is another great entree. They don't scrimp on the salt, and I think that really levels-up the chip.

The tortilla soup is my favourite - it's topped with so many goodies, fresh avocado, lemon, crispy chips - and personally, I rate it as a main (it's also a yum vegetarian option if you hold the chicken).

Actually, the vegetarian options across the board are great - there's a full vege menu for tacos, quesadillas, and enchiladas.

The place is a go-to for at least my friends (who are pretty particular) and me.

We always get an extra side of jalapenos, but all dishes come with a little something something - rice, black beans, salad (more picked onions), and salsa.

Last time, we finished off with the lemon pie to share and it was unreal.

All up, for shared starters and a dessert, a main each, and a drink, I think we paid about $40 each.

- Mary Argue

Christchurch

Afghan owner Abdul gets the grill ablaze.

Afghan owner Abdul gets the grill ablaze.

RNZ / Adam Burns

The Afghan Restaurant or “AFG” remains one of the city’s most popular and unique dining experiences - a cult favourite spiced with a pinch of mystery.

Serving up authentic Middle Eastern food, the Addington hideaway does not take bookings or operate with set opening hours. In fact, it does not even have a menu.

Despite the peculiarities around its hours, once word spreads hungry customers line up in long queues along Lincoln Road and still leave more than satisfied.

If you can stomach a 30-40 minute wait on busier nights, your patience will be rewarded.

The obvious question is how on earth does the eatery get so busy with such sporadic opening hours? The best way for loyal AFG disciples to find out is a Facebook group page that underlines the AFG’s growing repute, with page membership swelling to more than 33,000 people.

The line for Addington’s Afghan restaurant often extends out the door.

The line for Addington’s Afghan restaurant often extends out the door.

RNZ / Adam Burns

At least one member breaks the ice every day by asking the simple question, "are you open tonight?" If the enigmatic user known as "Quad Bear" responds in the affirmative, then the die-hards are in business.

The Afghan is also fairly good value for money - for about $20 customers are served a filling three-course spread. The business has not hiked its prices in more than a decade.

- Adam Burns

Dunedin

The Bowling Club relies on a small, tight knit team of 12.

The Bowling Club relies on a small, tight knit team of 12.

RNZ

Tucked away in the Dunedin suburb of Caversham, The Bowling Club shows that hearty, tasty kai does not have to break the bank.

Once a little food truck blown around by the cold southerlies of South Dunedin, the business serves hundreds of people each day, along with freshly baked bread, bottled sauces, granola and local preserves.

Mains cost an astonishing $4 to $8 but meals are free for people who cannot afford it, with options for diners to pay it forward and donate a plate.

So how does Dunedin's cheapest eatery get away with $4 mains? The Bowling Club dishes up simple, seasonal meals and buys direct from growers.

Macaroni and cheese is a staple but the rest of the menu changes weekly, from curries to loaded fries and everything in between.

The business now delivers hot kai to collection points across the city and further afield to Mosgiel, Milton and Balclutha.

People are encouraged to bring their own bowl or container and dine communally, fostering connection and perhaps new friendships.

- Tess Brunton

Do you have a favourite that you think deserves Michelin accolades? Tell us about it lifestyle.ent@rnz.co.nz

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