It’s not the world’s most glamorous vegetable, but much-maligned cabbage is a good source of vitamin C and delivers plenty of bang for buck for cost-conscious cooks. A whole cabbage will currently set you back about $5 - a bargain compared to the more delicate greens that are soon to be in short supply.
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Cabbage may be ubiquitous, but it responds well to a wide range of culinary treatments far more exciting than the stinky boiled stuff you might have been forced to eat as a child. Fun fact: not only is boiling the easiest way to overcook a cabbage (and therefore release the kind of sulphurous stench that puts even the most devoted cabbage fan off their dinner), but it also has a deleterious effect on its nutritional profile.
A whole, uncut cabbage will keep for two weeks in the fridge. Once it's cut, the clock starts ticking. If just using half or a quarter at a time, sprinkle the remaining cabbage with water and wrap tightly before returning to the vegetable bin (this will stop it drying out). If the cut side does go brown, just trim it off before proceeding with your next cabbage feast. As always, use your nose: if a cut piece of cabbage has a bit of a pong, it is likely to be past its best. The following recipes will help inspire you to use up a whole cabbage before it dies a sad and stinky death in your fridge.
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Widespread renewed interest in all things fermented has done a lot to increase cabbage’s coolness cachet. Kelly Gibney’s Sauerkraut requires just three ingredients (two kinds of cabbage and salt). Bonnie Le Gros uses just one cabbage variety and adds caraway seeds for a traditional northern European Raw Fermented Sauerkraut. Both conveniently make the most of cabbage while its cheap and help you store it away for a later date.
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Barbecue season is still upon us - just - and a spiced slaw is a great accompaniment to grilled meat or vegetables. Try Allyson Gofton’s Cumin-Spiked Coleslaw or Jess Daniell’s Fast Slaw, both of which can be whipped up in about 10 minutes.
Traumatic childhood memories of boiled cabbage will be banished forever once you’ve served up Lauraine Jacobs’ Cabbage with Coriander and Coconut or Jeremy Jones’ Braised Red Cabbage with Apples. And Al Brown’s Sauteed Red Cabbage Salad is like the great reveal in a movie makeover montage: cabbage haters won’t recognise their dowdy nemesis when it's all dolled up with walnuts, blue cheese and bacon.
Prawn Okonomiyaki Photo: Josh Emett
Cabbage plays a crucial supporting role in a variety of Asian or Asian-inspired dishes. Annabel Langbein puts it to work in these ingenious Crispy Pork Rolls (all the joys of an excellent spring roll, without deep-frying). Anna Jones turns a small white cabbage into Korean Carrot and Sesame Pancakes, while Josh Emett whips up a Japanese-inspired Prawn Okonomiyaki (possibly the best-ever vehicle for Kewpie mayonnaise).
If, after all those recipes, you're just craving a bit of old-fashioned boiled cabbage, shred it finely and cook it in a pot of boiling salted water until just tender (about 3-5 minutes). Drain well, then toss through a generous slice of butter. Season well with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
