1 Aug 2025

Outer islands' delicacies in hot demand at Cook Islands 60th anniversary celebrations

11:57 am on 1 August 2025
Penrhyn loads up the tray of the truck full of food to donate to the other groups from the Outer Islands.

Penrhyn loads up the tray of the truck full of food to donate to the other groups from the Outer Islands. Photo: Caleb Fotheringham

Unique island specialties are selling fast at the Cook Islands 60th Constitution celebrations trade days in Rarotonga.

Ngatokorua Elisa from the Northern Group Island told RNZ Pacific her Manihiki Island stall is sold out of pa'ua or giant clam.

"Manihiki we're the only ones that have pa'ua on our island and pa'ua is a really famous dish here and everyone hardly gets to eat it," Elisa said.

For Koi Bishop from Aitutaki, she is all out of coconut oil made the traditional way - dried in the sun, not cooked. It also includes a part of a particular crab that is mixed in.

Koi Bishop from Aitutaki holding up a double bed spread, selling at the market on behalf of a Mama who needed to go to New Zealand for medical treatment.

Koi Bishop from Aitutaki holding up a double bed spread, selling at the market on behalf of a Mama who needed to go to New Zealand for medical treatment. Photo: Caleb Fotheringham

Deon Frispie sold uto drinks at the Palmerston stall.

"It's the sprout of the coconut, the foam meat in the coconut, we grate it up and squeeze it out."

Deon Frispie selling uto drinks at the Palmerston stall.

Deon Frispie selling uto drinks at the Palmerston stall. Photo: Caleb Fotheringham

The Cook Islands is made up of 15 islands, 12 are inhabited, which are spread across an area the size of Mexico.

Te Maeva Nui, which is the name for the Cook Islands Constitution celebrations, allows a chance for the Pa Enua (outer islands) to reconnect with people they do not often see.

A running tradition is for each island to donate food to the others.

On Wednesday local time (Thursday NZT), it was Penrhyn's turn and Mayor Rangitava Taia was busy loading up a tray for the delivery.

"We've been doing this in the past, sharing, caring, among each island," he said.

Mayor of Manihiki Joseph Hiro said living in the outer islandsis far from easy.

"[It's] very challenging at times, especially with the shipping, now we're having to wait more than three months for a boat from Raro to get to Manihiki."

The Pa Enua have unique infrastructure challenges: power is often rationed, food staples can run out quickly, and so can fresh water, which from time to time needs to be shipped in.

There is also a constant battle with depopulation.

Hiro said the worst he saw it was in 1997 after Cyclone Martin significantly damaged the black pearl industry.

"So most of the people travel from Manihiki to here and went to New Zealand, seeking green pastures while we stayed back behind trying to revitalise the pearl industry."

In 2011, Manihiki had a population of 239 now it's about 215.

For Southern Group island Mangaia there were 572 people living there in 2011 now it's about 470.  

King of Mangaia, Numangatini Ariki  Tangi Tereapii

King of Mangaia, Numangatini Ariki Tangi Tereapii Photo: Caleb Fotheringham

King of Mangaia, Numangatini Ariki  Tangi Tereapii said people leaving has been a problem for the last 20 years.

"I think we are down to the bare minimum, to care for the land and also for the development of the island, we need more people back," Tereapii said.  

But bringing people back is not easy, Mangaia is the second biggest island in the Cook Islands, next to Rarotonga, and Tereapii believes there are economic opportunities in agriculture.

"We can't just bring people back, they need employment, they need a little bit of income on the island, so yes, few people decided to come back and they are the ones currently working on the land, working on the island, trying to build up their small business."

Mayor of Manihiki Joseph Hiro.

Mayor of Manihiki Joseph Hiro. Photo: Caleb Fotheringham

For Manihiki, Hiro hoped an upgraded airstrip, which is the pipeline, will kick start tourism.

"Even though [it would be] on a small scale, at least there will be something, and probably that would bring back Manihikians to go back into pearl farming, that will also attract the tourists back into Manihiki."

Get the RNZ app

for ad-free news and current affairs