21 Mar 2022

Esther's Expo: "You eat with your eyes first"

From Here Now, 5:00 am on 21 March 2022

The breathless promotional videos promise a "celebration of human brilliance" and "a making of a new world", but for chef Esther Olatunbosun, Expo 2020 in Dubai is a place to make great desserts.  

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Chef Esther Olatunbosun, who was chosen to work at the 2020 Expo in Dubai

Chef Esther Olatunbosun, who was chosen to work at the 2020 Expo in Dubai Photo: Supplied

Esther has spent the past six months in Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates, working at Expo 2020 (like the Olympics, it was delayed by Covid-19 but has kept the year it was meant to have opened in its title).

The 438 hectare site is home to pavilions showcasing 192 countries. New Zealand has invested $61m in is presence at the world expo and Commissioner-General Clayton Kimpton has stressed “we’re not playing here" as the UAE was an “incredibly important market to Zealand's economy”. The UAE is New Zealand's 10th largest export market.

Being part of a small group of New Zealanders at the Pavillion and one of about 17 young Kiwis at Expo 2020 was a huge opportunity for 24 year-old Olatunbosun, who came to New Zealand from Lagos, Nigeria, 15 years ago. And it's clear she's not messing about either, working long days at Tiaki, the restaurant in the New Zealand pavilion.

"Sometimes for me I tend to forget how amazing the opportunity is, because it was open to the whole country and only three of us were selected. It's baffling... Sometimes you just have to stop and appreciate the moment," Esther says.

Esther, Michael Lopesi and Laura Jane Muller were selected to support Taste New Zealand Chef Sid Sahrawat at Tiaki.

It almost didn't happen for the AUT graduate.

"I just got this message talking about an opportunity at the student hub and I wasn't even meant to be at uni that day... [but] I was a bit bored at home so I thought I might as well go see what this is all about. I went there and was interested enough to just be like 'you know what? Let's sign up and see what happens'. Most things like that never really fall into my lap... Everything I guess worked out".

Tiaki restaurant has proved a hit at Expo 2020 in Dubai

Tiaki restaurant has proved a hit at Expo 2020 in Dubai Photo: Supplied

Listen the full conversation between Esther and Voices' Kadambari Raghukumar in this latest podcast episode:

She's learning lots and her pavlova is earning a bit of a reputation - a recipe she says she "can't take any credit for", having got it from her colleague and co-chef at Tiaki, Laura's mum, Shelly. 

"It's quite a pressure", she says, making someone else's recipe, and that too, a dessert that two countries fight over - but it's right up her alley.

Pavlova from Tiaki restaurant, NZ Pavillion, 2020 Expo, Dubai

Pavlova from Tiaki restaurant, NZ Pavillion, 2020 Expo, Dubai Photo: Supplied

"One thing I love about baking and deserts is that you have a recipe and you follow that recipe to get the result that you want. And I just love sweets, I have a big sweet tooth as well... And you know what they say, 'you eat with your eyes first'. So to be able to see something nice and pretty and appreciate the beauty of it, it's just lovely."

Expo 2020 is nearing its end but has inspired Esther to new thoughts about her future.

One supporter from Auckland messaged suggesting that start her own restaurant, but Esther's thinking about exploring her culinary roots in Nigeria -  she reckons much more could be done with African cuisine in New Zealand.

"It's definitely a food culture that needs to be focused more on or brought into the spotlight more".