8 Jan 2022

Lady and the Tramp: Milford Sound

From The Weekend , 10:33 am on 8 January 2022
Former NZ Prime Minister Helen Clark.

Former NZ Prime Minister Helen Clark. Photo: Supplied

New Zealand offers many opportunities for "energising" bush adventures, says Helen Clark.

After many years of travelling around the world, the former prime minister has been back in Aotearoa since March 2020 and taking on some of our Great Walks.

In the first episode of Lady and the Tramp, Clark reflects on her experience of Fiordland's Milford Track.

Clark - who is now the head of the UN's development programme - grew up on a farm near Pirongia Forest Park in the Waikato.

She first experienced the Milford Track - regarded by many as 'the finest walk in the world' - in 1987 when she was Minister of Conservation.

After getting a helicopter tour of the huts, Clark made a vow to walk the track someday.

That finally happened last January 2021 after she "snapped up" accommodation for herself, her husband, her sister and two friends.

The Milford Track is a four-day tramp.

Day one is a "gentle introduction" - after the boat takes you up the lake, it's just a 1km walk into the first hut.

After that, it was three "quite big" days of walking up and over the Mackinnon Pass before you come out at Milford Sound itself on the fourth day - mid-afternoon at the earliest.

It's a beautiful walk up the Pass, Clark says.

"You're walking up a long, shaded river valley, through beech. The wekas come up and scurry around. You see the little South Island robin - very very pretty."

The Mackinnon Pass on the Milford Track

The Mackinnon Pass Photo: DOC/Crystal Brindle

Although Mackinnon Pass is the major challenge of the Milford Track, Clark doesn't think its reputation of being "tough and terrifying" is justified.

"It's just a solid day's work and walk and you just need to take your time. Stop for those breaks. Enjoy it as you go. Don't push it faster than your body wants to go and have a great day out."

That said, she's amazed people run the track.

"I can't believe how strong and resilient [those runners] are because there's parts of that track where you could easily wreck an ankle or a knee."

After walking for six to eight hours a day, don't expect nightlife to be a thing on a track, Clark says.

"I found by the time you got in at the end of the day, have a shower, cup of tea, clean up... after dinner, you don't actually want to be up too late… don't add to your packed weight by carrying a book. I'd recommend against it."

 To walk the Milford Track you do need to be reasonably fit, she says.

"Get yourself fit beforehand. If you go to a gym, do that to build up your muscle strength. Make sure you're doing your 10,000 steps a day at a reasonable pace.

"I'd do a little hill-walking because the Mackinnon Pass is quite something. Apart from that, go in as healthy and fit a state as you can.

"Be prepared to be on two pins - Shanks's pony - for quite a lot of hours."

The southern Great Walks Season - when it's recommended people walk the Milford Track - runs from September to April.

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