27 Dec 2018

NZ snorkel spots - Off the beaten track with Elisabeth Easther

From Summer Times, 11:18 am on 27 December 2018

Snorkeling may seem like an expensive luxury, but travel writer and explorer Elisabeth Easther says that's a misconception: instead it's a cheap, fun way to learn more about the underwater environment on our doorstep. 

While many Kiwis will be hitting the same old holiday hot-spots this summer, Easther will be joining Summer Times to suggest some lesser-known spots in New Zealand well worth the effort to get there.  

Today, she's keen to share all the places you can get some great snorkeling without hitching a lift on a boat. 

"I do remember the first time I went snorkeling and it was in rock pools - in, I think, Te Puru in the Coromandel - and just, you know, the first time you put a mask and snorkel on you just [shallow breaths] and then you realise you can breathe," she tells Emile Donovan. 

No boaties required

She says you don't need much to snorkel. 

"Oh my gosh you do not need a boat. I mean they’re handy, but they’re really expensive so do not start with a boat …. There are so many cool places you can pop yourself in.

"I think you can get a decent mask and snorkel set - one that will do you - for about $25 to $30 if you shop around. Flippers are optional - depends on how fast and how far you want to go. Reef shoes can be sensible if you’re going somewhere there might be kina, little spiky sea urchins. 

"The mask can fog up so you can just spit in it and give it a little rubby rubby rubby before you put it on, and that actually takes care of the mist. 

She does warn that safety is paramount, however. 

"When you’re in the ocean, never underestimate it being so much bigger than you. 

"I would always say ... either go with somebody who knew what they were doing or with someone who can be, you know, your buddy - because divers always take buddies."

Water, water, everywhere

She says really anywhere there's clear water, not too much chop and a safe area can be good for snorkeling; you can even practice in the bath.

"Obviously waves are going to going to be a bit detrimental because they’ll keep floffing down the end of your snorkel, so you want to go somewhere relatively estuary-ish or super calm."

"A farm puddle might not be the one, but mangrove swamps are amazing, lakes are fascinating - obviously we’re gonna have the water to duck poo ratio higher in water than duck poo…  but there’s so much to see under the water -and you don’t need a boat.

"If you’ve got a mask and snorkel and there’s a reasonable amount of visibility and you feel safe and got someone with you, pop your head into any body of water and that includes lakes - because you won’t know what’s there until you have a look." 

Although just about anywhere can work, Easther says some of the best spots around New Zealand are marine reserves.

"There’s nothing like a marine reserve, I always find, because there’s just so much more going on." 

Reotahi Marine Reserve - Whangārei

One great spot is a place up in McLeod’s Bay near Whangārei heads called Reotahi Marine Reserve, Easther says.

"What you want is to go at high tide, and the visibility - if it’s not been stormy you’ll get about 400 metres of visibility.

"There, the casual snorkeler can see parore, mullets, eagle rays and these neat things called nudibranchs ... they’re these soft-bodied marine gastropod molluscs … they shed their shells and they have these quite often vibrant colours, they look a bit like aliens or orchids. 

"You’ll see kina there - and sometimes apparently when they’re on a feeding frenzy kingfish just swing on through … the rules  of the sea are you give way to kingfish. 

Gemstone Bay - Coromandel

"Cathedral Cove has got this neat place called Gemstone Bay which is quite good for the beginner snorkeler because they’ve got these buoys … you can hang on to them. 

She says it’s a good option for a learner snorkeler looking to test out some deeper waters. 

“Again, you want to take someone in [with you], not a place to learn to swim ... you’d want to be a good swimmer but if you’re not ... you can hang onto the buoys.

"There you’re going to see really big snapper, eagle rays … crayfish there - lots of crayfish - and lots of really interesting weed which obviously provides habitat - but it’s also really interesting to watch."

Te Tapuwae o Rongokako - Gisborne

"There’s a diving organisation - I think it’s a company where you have to pay but they take you stingray diving, it’s like being hugged by stingrays. 

"You can also see crayfish and spotties and wrasse and marine snails and sponges - it’s just got, like. a world, like a whole universe, under the water there. 

"It’s, I think, 16 kilometres north of Gisborne and it’s on SH35."

Taputeranga marine reserve - Wellington

"I love this because you think of the capital city being more about, you know, people stuff …  under the water there’s a whole lot of politics. 

"Island bay, you’ll see the Taputeranga marine reserve where the old surf club is, if you head straight out there - and you can go swimming from shore.

"Giant jack mackerel, greenbones, blue moki and spotties and again you’ll see nudibranchs and starfish and octopuses - or octopi if you rather.

"Yellow-eyed mullet and heaps of this sea lettuce - that is this bright bright algae which is so bright that when the spotties eat it they go a little bit green themselves. 

She says there’s large paua too. 

“Giant big lip-kissing, rockhugging monsters. I mean you do kind of think ‘oh yum’, but you just know that they’re there for breeding and it’s a marine reserve, so yeah - just cool your jets. 

Horoirangi Marine Reserve - Nelson

"It’s named for the highest peak that overlooks the reserve and apparently if there are clouds over the peak, go home because bad weather’s coming. That’s apparently what people say. 

"You can see tarakihi which are really huge, there are starfish, apparently there are seahorses … goatfish and blue cod and it’s a really, really full sea there."

Tonga Island Marine Reserve - Abel Tasman National Park

"You probably want to get their either by kayak or water taxi if you’re hiking in or something like that, but it is full noise: crayfish, moki, snapper, seals. 

"You’re not allowed to touch seals, you have to stay 20 metres from a seal although the seals don’t seem to mind it."

Above the water here offers some great views too. 

"It’s paradise, it’s one of those places you go ‘oh my gosh has sommeone photoshopped my eyeballs'." 

Rotoroa Island and Motutapu - Hauraki Gulf

"Pretty much anywhere there is rocks and sea there are things to see, although I must say compared to some places you do feel that some of the kelp forests have been compromised and these things called kina barrens where the kina just steamroll through and eat and chew and decimate and they’re having a bit of an effect. 

"Quite controversial, but some of us think that a bit of marine reserve space in the Hauraki Gulf would be quite a good idea."